Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Kenýaferð með abc–þriðji hluti

Einn af síðustu dögunum í Nairóbí  fórum við í hættulegasta slömm borgarinnar sem heitir Corrogocho. Þar vorum við í fylgd vopnaðs manns og andrúmsloftið var frekar rafmagnað. Hverfið er staðsett við stærstu öskuhauga borgarinnar og margir vinna sér inn peninga með því að róta í ruslinu í leit að plasti, málmi eða bara einhverju ætilegu. Við skoðuðum haugana í nálægð og lyktin var ólýsanleg. Ég sá konu beygja sig niður og skola andlitið upp úr polli við haugana, vatnið var ógeðslegt og svín og fuglar voru þarna líka í leit að æti.

Á fyrsta heimilinu bjó ekkja með þrjú börn en reyndar bjuggu fjögur börn á heimilinu því munaðarlausum frænda hafði verið komið fyrir hjá henni. Konan átti svo von á barni með kærasta sem hafði látið sig hverfa, hann treysti sér ekki til að búa með börnunum og bera ábyrgð á þeim. Hun virkaði frekar dofin og var lengi að svara spurningunum okkar og sagði okkur að hún væri að missa húsnæðið vegna þess hve illa henni gekk að borga leiguna.

Næst heimsóttum við stuðningsdóttur Berglindar en hún er sex ára og byrjaði í skóla í haust. Henni gengur vel í skólanum og mamma hennar og amma voru stoltar yfir árangrinum. Berglind var líka stoltið uppmálað þegar hún sat með hana í fanginu.

Í síðasta húsinu hittum við fyrir ekkju sem missti manninn sinn í óeirðunum eftir forsetakosningarnar. Hann var myrtur á hroðalegan hátt og hún stóð eftir ein með rúmlega ársgamla tvíburastráka. Kofinn þeirra var í hroðalegu ástandi, moldargólf með moldarveggi og það sást í gegnum bárujárnið í þakinu. Það var búið að strengja plast yfir rúmið til að varna því að rigndi beint inn. Konan sagði okkur að hún færi að leita að þvottavinnu á daginn og þá líta nágrannar oft eftir strákunum. Ef hún fær engan til að líta eftir þeim skilur hún þá eftir fyrir utan kofann, þeir eru einu ári eldri en Eyja, verða fjögurra ára í febrúar. Þessi litla fjölskylda borðar bara eina máltíð á dag. Mér fannst skrefin inn í þetta hús og út alveg sérlega erfið, ég var búin að sjá svo margt hræðilegt og þarna var enn ein fjölskyldan í ömurlegum aðstæðum.

Annar hópur hitti fjölskyldu sem gat ekki borgað leiguna og þá hafði eigandi kofans tekið hurðina af og þessvegna var greið leið fyrir utanaðkomandi inn til þeirra.

Rósa styður barn í SOS þorpi í Kenýa en það er staðsett langt frá borginni. Þórunn skipulagði heimsókn í SOS þorp í Nairóbí fyrir nokkur okkar. Það var skemmtilega uppbyggt, þarna búa einungis munaðarlaus börn og þá eru þau í húsum með konu sem þau kalla mömmu og öðrum börnum.

Börnin og unglingarnir á barnaheimili abc undirbjuggu kveðjuathöfn fyrir hópinn okkar. Við slógum saman til að hægt væri að kaupa geit sem var slátrað og nautakjöt að auki. Þau tóku á móti okkur með söng og dansi og við settumst öll inn í kirkjuna áður en við settumst að borðum og gæddum okkur á geitinni, ugali og hrísgrjónum. Eftir matinn hélt skemmtidagskráin áfram með ljóðaupplestri, leikþáttum og ræðuhöldum.

Gróa sem var sjálfskipuð amma barnanna á barnaheimilinu ákvað að bjóða öllum börnunum 160 upp á ís. Mörg barnanna höfðu aldrei smakkað ís áður.

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Spenna með ís í hendi.

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Berglind og Gróa deila út ís í boxi.

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Gróa naut þess að dekra við börnin.

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Gæjar gæða sér á ís.

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Rose kom alltaf að heilsa upp á mig.

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Siggi og Rósa með Möggu á milli sín.

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Yngsti íbúi barnaheimilisins fékk líka að smakka ís.

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Ég þurfti að neita krökkunum þegar þau vildu bjóða mér með sér. Þau sem kláruðu sinn skammt fyrst fengu oft smakk frá hinum.

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Krakkar í SPRON bolum

Eftir hjartnæma kveðjustund þar sem féllu mörg tár fórum við heim í hús til að pakka fyrir næsta ævintýri en það var þriggja daga ferð í þjóðgarðinn Masai Mara.

Við vorum sótt á bílum og keyrðum norður út úr Nairóbí í gegnum te og kaffiakra og komum að sigdalnum mikla sem nær alla leið frá miðausturlöndum til Mósambik.

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Mæðgurnar Helena og Rósa við útsýnisstaðinn.

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Horft yfir sigdalinn Rift valley.

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Við komum fljótlega í Masai-land en þar býr þjóðflokkur hirðingja. Þeir eiga kýr, geitur og kindur og leita eftir beitarlandi fyrir dýrin sín á landamærum Kenýa og Tansaníu en þar heitir svæðið Serengetí.

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Við heimsóttum Masai-þorp en það var nú frekar túristalegt því við borguðum okkur inn. Á myndinni er leiðsögumaðurinn, höfðingjasonur að sýna okkur laufblöð á tré sem þeir tyggja til að hreinsa tennurnar. Sjálfur var hann ekki góð auglýsing því það vantaði helming tannanna í munninn.

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Þeir sýndu okkur líka hvernig þeir kveikja eld. Sérstakan hoppdans þar sem þeir hoppa til að heilla konurnar. Masai-menn borða kjöt og drekka mjólk og blanda líka blóði út í mjólkina. Þeir borða enga ávexti og grænmeti, einungis ber sem þeir tína af trjánum.

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Masai-menn stunda fjölkvæni og þeir borga fyrir konurnar sínar með kúm. Það má víst ekki spyrja þá hversu margar kýr þeir eiga, það er eins og spyrja hve mikla peninga þeir eigi. Þeir stunduðu ljónaveiðar áður, sem einskonar manndómsvígslu en nú mega þeir ekki drepa ljónin. Ef ljón drepa frá þeim kú fá þeir bætur.

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Við Rósa ætluðum að vera sniðugar og spyrja Masai-mennina hversu margar kýr þeir myndu bjóða í okkur. Á myndinni var ég nýbúin að spyrja og sá sem er annar frá hægri leit á mig og tilkynnti: “You look old!” Þá spurði ég hvað hann héldi að ég væri gömul og hann rannsakaði mig og kvað upp dóminn 35 ára.

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Þá vogaði ég mér að spyrja hversu margar kýr hann myndi borga og þá var svarið: “Eina belju!!” Ég varð fyrir vissu áfalli, hélt ég væri meira virði, en samfyrirsætur mínar skemmtu sér vel yfir hrakförum mínum. Ég býst við að aldurinn 35 ára sé ansi hár en ekki nógu hár til að verða virðulegur.

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Hótelið okkar voru tjöld úti í náttúrunni, algjör lúxus. Rósa tók sig vel út á terrössunni. Þegar við vildum heita sturtu komu menn með með fötur fullar af heitu vatni á hjólbörum og svo var vatninu hellt í skjóðu sem var hífð upp við hlið baðherbergisins. Svo skrúfuðum við frá vatninu inni í sturtuklefanum og fengum þessa fínu sturtu sem var þó stundum fullheit.

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Í tjaldborginni bjó antilópa af tegund eland en það er stærsta antilópa veraldar. Hann var mjög vinalegur við Rósu.

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Á öðrum degi keyrðum við inn í þjóðgarðinn með leiðsögumanninum Peter sem var hafsjór af fróðleik. Við keyrðum út um allar grundir í leit að dýrum og fundum þau flest fyrir utan hlébarða sem er mjög erfitt að sjá.

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Flóðhestarnir voru rólegir en við rétt sáum í nashyrninga sem hurfu svo inn í runnana.

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Þessi fílahjörð var á leið niður að ánni.

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Við hittum ljónynjur með unga. Við sáum líka ljónynju sem var nýbúin að drepa sebrafolald handa sínum unga. Sebramamman kallaði viðvörunarorð til hinna sebrahestanna.

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Litrík eðla í tré.

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Hýenur eru ekki sjarmerandi dýr.

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Á landamærum Kenýa og Tansaníu.

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Rósa og safaríbíllinn en við stóðum allan daginn með hausinn út úr loftlúgunni.

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Um kvöldið vorum við veðurbarin eftir útiveruna og fengum mat í einskonar helli við hótelið. Helena, Ágúst og Gróa.

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Sigurbjörg, Inga og Rósa.

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Guðjón Ingi, Kristófer, Berglind og Ester.

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Á leið inn í borgina mættum við þessum skjaldbökum í vegkantinum.

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Berglind og Rósa tóku að sér að bjarga þeim og bera yfir veginn.

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Eftir tíðindalaust ferðalag og nótt í London vorum við, Rósa og Gróa tilbúnar í heimflugið á Heathrow.

Fullt af minningum í farteskinu sem ég deili með ferðafélögum mínum, takk fyrir samveruna!

Dalla

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